Paint is the first decorating stop for most of us when it comes to reworking colour in our home. Nothing else makes such an impact for a comparatively small amount of money. Yet for many of us, paint buying and application is a mystery requiring the services of professionals. No more!

Manufacturers are making painting easier for the home decorator – and more pleasant. Wattyl’s i.d range of paint has virtually no fumes or smell. Dulux Aquanamel Gloss is also low-odour, and there are several no-fume brands of paint, such as the Natural Paint Company’s and Porter’s Paints for even the most sensitive.

Water-based (acrylic) paints have always been easier to clean up (and with lower fumes) than the oil-based (enamel). Now acrylics come with wipe-clean surfaces too, and there are sealers such as Porter’s Matt Wall Sealer that can be applied over absorbent matt finishes, including lime wash and distempers.

Smart paints are the next big thing for homes. One of the first to hit the market is Ecco Therm from Aalto Colour. It is a low emission acrylic paint which manages radiant heat by reflecting about 32 per cent of radiant energy forming a heating system in winter. In summer, the opposite occurs; 32 per cent of the radiant energy that would normally pass through the walls of a home from the outside is blocked. The manufacturers say that applying two coats of Ecco Therm will result in heating and cooling saving of up to 20 per cent over the course of a year.

Prep checklist

Before you pick up your brushes, take time to plan. Simple tricks will save you hours of cleaning. Don’t forget to order pizza for your helpers.

• Set a date, choose one when friends and family are available to help
• Give yourself enough time for the job. Remember that paint drying times vary with the weather and that daylight is best to work in
• Check the weather, don’t paint during rain, or if the temperature is likely to fall below 10ºC or rise above 35ºC during drying time
• Take down curtains, mirrors and pictures and store carefully
• Protect light fittings by wrapping them with plastic dry-cleaning bags or garbage bags. Remove any that can be easily taken down
• Move light furniture out of the room until you’ve finished
• Cover remaining furniture with plastic sheets, old bed sheets or drop cloths
• Mask all edges and other areas to be kept unpainted
• Remove door handles or cover them with taped-on plastic
• If you wear glasses, cover the lenses with plastic cling wrap: when you peel it off, those accidental paint spots will go with it

STEP ONE: Which paint?

Today’s paint stores offer such an extraordinary selection of products that deciding the actual colour can sometimes be the easiest choice you’ll make. There’s a host of different finishes and specialty effects available, some of these require different degrees of expertise to apply. Talk to your supplier about how to achieve the finish you want while sticking to your DIY comfort levels.

Decision making

Before buying paint, make notes of your desired finish, the regular wear and tear on the surface that is to be painted, and the condition of the surface.

All this information will help your supplier to point you in the right direction and make recommendations regarding preparation and undercoats. Sample pots allow you to try out colours and textures.

GUIDE TO PAINT TYPES

Reading labels in most paint stores is like tackling a classic Russian novel; easier with a crib sheet! Try our cheat’s guide to the best interior paint types

• Flat finish: also called matt finish, no shine, doesn’t reflect light, conceals a multitude of flaws. Deeper colours look divine in flat.
• Low sheen: great all-rounder, subtle sheen, washable.
• Eggshell or silk: smooth, soft sheen, not good with steam, kids or pets.
• Satin and semi-gloss: brightness without the glare, sheen without shine, needs more preparation, great for kitchens, bathrooms, children’s rooms and traffic areas.
• High-gloss: very shiny, durable, easy maintenance, but can show up imperfections.
• Suede: water-based paint with soft finish.
• Glaze: shimmery, pearlescent, mother-of-pearl finish with rich lustre, applied over a base coat for a luminous colour.
• Lime wash: can be authentic, using lime recipes, or synthetic. Both should allow for some lime bloom through the colour, giving soft chalky shades in Tuscan tones.
• Fresco or stucco: an old style of textured paint, originally applied in a plaster mix, now also available in synthetic. Can be coated in a wax finish for a richer finish.
• Patina: these paints use a copper or iron base which is covered in a oxidising layer to give instant verdigris or rust.
• Stone: gives a textured finish, in varying grades, usually in natural colours. Excellent durability and very forgiving on rough surfaces.
• Milk paint: milk powder and pigment mixed with binders, gives a soft finish and can be mixed to any strength. Coat with wax finish for gloss and protection.
• Metallic: uses finely ground minerals to create a shimmering modern effect.

STEP TWO: Preparation

Getting started – A beautifully painted room will reflect how much time you’ve put in to the preparation. These days a myriad of tricks and tips are available to help take the angst out of paint prep and give expert results.

Ron Dalman, managing director of national specialists Paint Place, says “technically a lot has changed; there are one-step products which do the lot – prime, seal and undercoat.”

“Sanding used to be a chore, but now there’s sanding blocks and flexible sandpaper to get into tricky corners. And a DIYer can cut in as quick as a tradesperson using an application pad – a little painting device on wheels which you push against corners to cut into a ceiling.”

Strip, sand and seal

Prepare surfaces properly before you start and you’re practically guaranteed a perfect finish. Follow these simple steps -
- Clean the surface, as paint can’t adhere to a dirty surface. Wash away grease, dust or dirt with detergent or sugar soap and water. Rinse all cleaning solutions from the surface thoroughly, soap residue also prevents paint form adhering. Plastic drop cloths and old towels on the floor will absorb all the drips.

• Remove any loose, peeling or flaking paint with a scraper, wire bush or hot air gun. Always use a face mask as paint flakes can irritate your lungs and old paints may contain lead.
• Remove wallpaper, unless it has a perfectly flat surface and is in near-new condition with no loose edges.
• Prime bare areas on timber surfaces before filling cracks and holes.
• Fill in cracks, gaps or holes. Talk to your local hardware supplier about the best products for each surface type and trade tricks for dealing with large cracks and holes.
• Replace loose or dry putty around windows.
• Sand the surface perfectly smooth. Wear a face mask and eye protection while working, even if you are hand-sanding.
• Vacuum thoroughly after you’ve allowed the dust to settle, so it won’t be stirred up later and settle on the wet paint.
• Mask windows and other trims with masking tape: try the new surface-specific types available from 3M.
• Undercoat with a suitable product. Some walls require sealer, especially on porous surfaces and over dark colours. Talk to your paint supplier about your needs.

STEP THREE: Painting

Tips and tricks – Now for the fun part. Follow these tips and you’ll soon be watching paint dry

• Paint exterior doors early in the day, prop them open to dry and they will be ready to close again by nightfall.
• Don’t use a screwdriver or piece of dowel to stir your paint. Your stirrer must be flat and preferably plastic.
• An artist’s brush will help you pick out small details quickly and easily.
• Painting sequence: start with the ceiling and work down. Paint away from your light source so you aren’t painting in shadow. Then paint walls, doors and window followed by skirting and mouldings.
• For ceilings, brush a hand-wide strip all the way around the perimeter, then using a brush or roller, paint in 50cm to 1m strips across the shortest dimension, working out from the centre.
• For walls, work in one metre segments. If using a roller, apply paint in a broad M,W or X patter with upwards strokes. Even out first with horizontal and then vertical strokes.
• Using gloss or semi-gloss on your room’s trims requires less pressure on the brush than flat paints.
• If you are interrupted while painting, wrap wet brushes or rollers in cling wrap to stop them hardening.
• If you have paint spills, stop them spreading and scrape up as much paint as possible working from the spill inwards. Kitty litter can be used to soak up paint.

The right brush

Don’t skimp on your brushes. If your brush leaves a trail of hairs in the paint, it’s got to go. Shorter bristles restrict paint coverage; look for a soft, long, tapered and tipped bristle brush that feels like a make-up brush, this will allow the paint to flow on smoothly. A top-quality brush should be easy to clean and will leave fewer brush marks in the finished coat. Synthetic brushes are best for water-based paints and natural bristles are ideal for oil-based paints. All purpose brushes have a mixture. Expect to pay up to $35 for good brushes, such as the Monarch 100mm synthetic bristle brush from Paint Place. If you are painting with a wood stain, hog bristle is the brush of choice. Rollers are the best choice for covering larger areas, synthetic ones are cheap and the lamb’s wool versions give the best finish, worth the extra cost.

• 12mm-25mm: these small brushes are best for touch-ups, window sills, chairs
• 50mm: use a medium-width brush for table tops, railings and cabinets
• 75mm: this brush size is ideal for medium to large areas such as floorboards and skirtings
• 100mm: this gives good coverage on walls, floors, ceilings, roofs and fences.